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How and with what to dilute water-based paint? This question arises quite often. The right decision is a guarantee of a reliable and durable coating and the absence of complications during operation.

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When it is necessary to dilute aqueous emulsion formulations

Water emulsion is a composition based on water. In it in the form of small droplets are various fillers that give the material final properties. As the solution is applied to the surface, part of the liquid is absorbed, and part evaporates. Due to the rapid removal of moisture, a protective layer is formed after a short period of time. Final drying depends on the surface material.

Now on sale there are various options for water emulsion (water-dispersed) paint. Many manufacturers produce products under their own brands. Therefore, it is advisable to breed the mixture, taking into account the individual characteristics of each variety in the following cases:

  • If after opening it is found that the solution is too thick, then it must be diluted. To determine that the consistency is not suitable for application is quite simple: for this, the composition is mixed well. If a large amount of product remains on the stirring item that does not flow back, then the use of a solvent is necessary.
Currently, specialized electric spray guns for water-based paints, both electric and manual, are on the market
  • In case of violation of the conditions of storage and use of products. It happens that the container after opening loosely clogged. If the situation is not corrected in time, then the material will completely become worthless. But at a certain stage, when the mixture has not yet had time to dry, it can be restored.

On a note! If the composition is liquid, this can be fixed in two ways: let the water evaporate a little or add a hardener. The second method is more complex, it is used in cases where the paint initially does not have the desired consistency.

Application of water for paint dilution

The right choice of diluent is the key to success. There are many tips and tricks for using various substances for this process. But the only right decision will be the use of water, since it is it that is the basis of the product.

For the best dilution, the fluid should advise certain parameters:

    Temperature. Water should have room temperature. If the work is carried out outside, then a component is added to the facade mortar, slightly exceeding the ambient temperature.

Attention! There is advice that dilution can be carried out using solvents used for enamel or oil paint. It is not right. If such a substance is added to an aqueous emulsion, then often the mixture simply coagulates. However, the reaction may not occur immediately, which is misleading.

The biggest problems (especially for those who do all the work on their own and without experience) arise due to proportions. The fact is that there is no clear correlation, one should be guided by the parameters that each specific manufacturer indicates on the label.

General recommendations are as follows:

    Up to 10% liquid can be used for dilution. In this case, the exact parameters depend on the surface material and brand of the paint.

On a note! Excessive dilution is practiced by unscrupulous masters. This makes it easier to lay each layer, reducing the decorative effect. In addition, if the purchase is not carried out by the landlord, this makes it possible to increase estimates.

How to breed paint?

To dilute selected material with water, there is no need to use sophisticated equipment. To work, you need a simple set of devices:

  • Net capacity, suitable size
  • drill with mixer nozzle,
  • small spatula (if lumps need to be removed).

  1. Paint is poured into a container. The process is carried out carefully, the composition is mixed a little.
  2. Water is added gradually. Even taking into account the proportions specified by the manufacturer, it is better to constantly check the viscosity.
  3. After adding each portion, everything is thoroughly kneaded. If lumps are visible, then uniformity has not yet been achieved.

It should be borne in mind that the color is affected by the volume, so it is added diluted in liquid.

Latex paint

Posted July 19, 2010 by konstanta30 in Repair. Add a comment

The problem of painting embossed wallpapers or ceilings, windows or balcony doors, and even without the risk of health risks, worries many ordinary people today. Recently, experts have advised using latex-based paints for such repairs. Because it is they that help maintain the ecology of the premises at the proper level.

The drying period of latex paint is 4-6 hours at a temperature of 20 ° C. And she gets the maximum hardness and ability to bear heavy loads after 3 days. As a rule, these paints are diluted with water approximately in the consistency of 1 liter per 6-9 m2 when painting in one layer.

You can store it for 12 months in a cold place, but not in the cold. Latex paint is applied, like conventional paints, with a brush, roller or high pressure spray gun.

Surfaces before painting should be properly prepared - cleaned of dirt, greasy stains, etc. On normal plaster, concrete, brick (silicate and regular), well-bonded wallpaper is applied without prior priming.

These paints are quite popular in specialized stores, available and at the same time environmentally friendly and acceptable for home or office repairs.

Master Classic 101. A latex-based aqueous emulsion ink (Russia)

It is used for painting ceilings made of concrete, cement, plaster, putty, wood. Appearance: matte, white. Consumption: 1 liter per 6 m2. Drying: before applying the next coat - 20 minutes, until completely dry - 20-60 minutes, depending on humidity and temperature in the room. It is diluted with water. Packed in plastic containers of 1.3, 2.5, 3 and 4 kg. It is stored for 6 months at a positive temperature. The average cost of paint is $ 4 per liter.

Master Classic 101 - specialized paint for the ceiling. Compared to traditional Cretaceous whitewash, often used for these purposes, applying it is much simpler and more convenient.

Plus, the resulting coating hides minor surface defects, withstands dry friction, and does not get dirty when you hold it with your finger. At the same time, it remains the same vapor-permeable (gives painted surfaces “breathe”) and porous (well-absorbing moisture), as well as whitewash, so if necessary it is easy to wash off to re-repair the ceiling.

Master Classic 101 dries quickly, does not smell, is an environmentally friendly paint, so that repair work with its use can be carried out quickly and without much inconvenience to others. That is why it is often used for repairs not only in living rooms, but also in hospitals, child care facilities, offices, warehouses.

Bindoplast-4. Acrylic-latex water-dispersion paint (Finland)

It is used for interior work - painting walls and ceilings. It is applied on plaster, putty, concrete, chipboard and fiberboard, gypsum boards, etc. Appearance: white, matte. Drying: 1-2 hours at room temperature. Consumption: 1 liter per 6-12 m2 depending on the type of surface. It is diluted with water. Packed in containers of 2.7 and 18 liters. It is stored for 12 months at a positive temperature.

This paint is recommended for use when painting interior rooms where a washable coating is needed (kitchens, bathrooms, corridors, etc.). The water resistance of Bindoplast-4 is estimated 2000 times by brushing. Such paint costs from $ 7 per liter.

Optimatt Extra - (Russia-Germany)

Highly opaque and corrosion inhibiting latex paint for interior use. Washable (according to DIN 53778 SM). It has a high degree of whiteness, outstanding hiding properties, relatively low consumption. It is easy to apply and does not leave smudges or brush marks. The coating has diffusion, alkali resistance, good adhesion.

Scope: mineral substrates and finishes (based on cement, gypsum, lime, etc.), old and weak dispersion coatings, isotropic products from wood fibers (particleboard, fiberboard, chipboard), coatings prepared with oil or synthetic paints, paper and vinyl wallpaper for coloring, fiberglass wallpaper.

The coating is smooth, matte. Color - white, tinted in weak and medium shades (4500 standard shades). Drying: at 20 ° C 4-5 hours between staining, full - 3 days. It has a neutral smell. It is diluted with water. Consumption: on a smooth surface - 130 ml / m2. On a medium-grained surface - 180 ml / m2. (Different surfaces have different properties and affect the consumption of the material. To accurately calculate the amount of material consumed, you need to conduct a trial coating.) Packed in containers of 15 liters.

Feidal Innenlatex Matt. Latex based paint (Russia - Germany)

It is used for interior work - applying abrasion-resistant coatings to walls and ceilings. Suitable bases: concrete, brick, plasterboard, plastered, putty bases, wallpaper. Matte, superwhite. It is tinted.

It dries up to tack after 2 hours, completely - after 4-6 hours. Consumption: 1 liter per 6-8 m2. It is diluted with water. Packed in containers of 3, 5, 7 and 18 liters. Spillage into the customer’s packaging is possible. It is stored in tightly closed containers for at least 2 years in a cool, dry place. Price from $ 2.2 per liter.

In Germany, the best characteristic of paints is the ability to recommend them for work in hospitals, kindergartens, that is, where the following indicators are needed: environmental cleanliness and high resistance to abrasion (at least 5000 brush passes), moisture resistance, low contamination with ease of washing, tolerance to disinfectants. Innenlatex Matt can rightfully be attributed to this category of materials.

Coverage during operation justifies its cost, and the final price / quality ratio is in fact beneficial to the buyer.

We have already appreciated this - among the paints produced in Russia, Feidal Innenlatex Matt firmly holds the 3rd place in demand (it was even ranked among a kind of elite - they are mainly used for renovations of homes and offices).

Eko-Joker. Latex paint (Tikkurila - Finland)

It is used for interior work - painting plastered, concrete, brick, wood (including fiberboard and chipboard) surfaces, as well as glass. It is used for coating walls and ceilings in living rooms, bedrooms, children's rooms, kitchens, hallways and other rooms.

Appearance: silky matte gloss. Washable. It can be tinted (up to 2000 shades).

It dries up to tack in 30 minutes, completely - in 1-2 hours at a temperature of 20 ° C.

Consumption: previously painted surface - 1 liter per 10-12 m2, on putty, chipboard and fiberboard - 7-9 m2, on concrete and plastered surfaces - 3-5 m2. It is diluted with water. Packed in containers of 0.9, 2.7, 9 and 18 liters. It is stored 12 months at room temperature. It must be protected against freezing.

Eko-Joker latex paint is part of a unique elite of waterborne dispersion paints, as it is one of the few that have been awarded the European environmental protection mark, and is distinguished by an almost complete absence of harmful fumes.

But, as tests have shown, it is not only friendly to nature and man, but also in quality - the best among the tested colors.

Eko-Joker is characterized by good resistance to washing (2000 brush strokes), resistance to chemical detergents and even mild solvents such as white spirit. Despite the fact that Tikkurila does not recommend freezing it, it has withstood 5 frost resistance cycles recommended by GOST 28196-89, so that in winter you can buy it without fear in open construction markets.

Eko-Joker in comparison with other paints is very economical: with one liter of paint you can paint up to 18 m2 of surface quality. True, it is worth mentioning that when working with absolutely clean fundamentals when buying, it is better to count on half the painted area, since painting with one layer of paint in white does not mean getting a durable coating.

Updating old painted surfaces can be done in one layer.

In almost all cases, Eko-Joker is used without a preliminary primer (except in cases of a weak surface - for example, crumbling plaster). Apply in 1-2 layers with a roller, brush

What you need to dilute Akan acrylic latex paints for airbrush

Good day, dear users of the Modelist project - The Path to Mastery.

Dmitry Ignatychev is in touch with you again - your guide to the world of large-scale modeling!

It just so happened that most of the models that I collected, I had to first paint with colors from the Star. Now I work with AKAN. The first colors were the only ones available in the cities that I lived. It turned out badly - poorly, but it turned out. But the Star, by and large, is not suitable for work under an airbrush. I do not mean the enamel paint of the Star.

And to be honest, I’ve come across Zvezdovskaya enamel once. And then as a seller’s mistake. And I tried it to work through an airbrush with quite good success for the painted surface.

At the moment, I have somewhere in the storage rooms 4 jars of their acrylic. The rest of the time I work as Akan.

The entire line of paints from Akan is divided into two main subgroups.

ACRYL-LATEX

I must say right away that there is no chemist from me. Because I'm not going to go into the details of the structure of acrylic. We will manage the most common phrases understandable to any person. The first group of paints is a water-alcohol emulsion. Theoretically, they are mainly designed to work with a brush. After drying, it is easily washed off with various industrial solvents.

ACRYL-URETHANE

The second group is enamels. They are diluted with solvents. Both native branded and simple 646m. Have good hiding power. After drying, they polymerize, creating an outer layer resistant to any chemical influences. Moreover, Akanovsky enamels bite into the surface of the plastic. So to erase, without damaging thereof, they are almost impossible.

Water-alcohol based paints AKAN

Theoretically, if you work as an airbrush, then take it and work with the second group of paints. But in practice, it is not so simple. Especially for me - a person endowed with allergic reactions to many products. I instantly react to solvent 646, and not for the better. Because enamels I can only work in a respirator.

There is also another point that determines my choice in the direction of Akan acrylate-latex paints. It is on their basis that standard sets of 6 paints are created. At the very beginning, it was very difficult to understand the color correspondence of the paint to the prototype. Therefore, I relied on ready-made options.

I still use these sets. I note that no matter who says, and the Akan palette is very close to the typical Russian one. No need to mix in the paint to match the original. For example, the color scheme of the Su-27.

So I chose to work with Akan acrylic latex paints. But for a long time I could not master their work through an airbrush. I tried many purely technical methods. I described them here. But all these decisions did not give a conclusive result.

The airbrush was often clogged. The desire to work in such conditions constantly disappeared. On good, paints should be properly diluted so that the pigment particles calmly fly through the nozzle. Water, although it is described on the label of a can of paint as the only means of dilution, did not give the desired effect. It just turned paint into dirty water.

How long it was short, but the first solution was found.

SOLUTION No. 1

THINNER UNDER AEROGRAPH OF ACRYL-LATEX PAINTS

Original paint thinner AKAN for airbrush

Somehow I delved into the Akan branded online store, and came across such a wonderful thing as THINNER UNDER AEROGRAPH . After reading the information on this product, I decided that my torment was over.

Special thinner acrylate-latex paints for airbrush. Does not change when diluting paint properties. Contains a retarder that lengthens the drying time of the paint. This effect allows the paint to flow more smoothly on the surface, flow into all the recesses.

Most importantly, this liquid makes it possible to dilute acrylic-latex paint to the desired concentration. Theoretically, this makes it possible to create paint layers of any thickness.

Without thinking twice, I ordered this thinner.

Further application experience has shown the following. Thinner does significantly reduce headaches when using this type of airbrush paint. The nozzle is practically not blocked. True, if you choose the right concentration of solvent. And it, as it turned out, needs to be poured very little. There is a chance to turn the paint simply into colored water. According to my calculations, the drying time of the paint doubled.

So it seems that the result has been achieved.

Again this is nasty but . Firstly, such a thinner is rare. Его не купишь в строительном магазине, или аптеке. Его нужно регулярно заказывать откуда-то издалека. Во-вторых, оставалось чувство некачественной работы с ним. Слишком велики ограничения на составление консистенции. Проще говоря, нужно слишком точно угадывать объем разбавителя.

Therefore, it was necessary to find a more affordable solution.

SOLUTION No. 2

ETHYL MEDICAL ALCOHOL 95%

Medical ethyl alcohol 95%

I came across this method thanks to this material. Here, the structure of acrylic latex paints, methods of application are more or less acceptable. But what’s most interesting - I came across such a phrase.

Like any water-based paint, Akan is completely diluted with Tamiyev solvents and other alcohols - it even dries better. So on an inscription like “dissolve only by water no more than 5%” you can ignore it, and actually there’s nothing to dissolve there - low concentration paint.

It turns out that my search for a thinner for Akan acrylic latex paints went in the wrong direction. And all because of ignorance of chemistry. Well, nothing, it's fixable. Next time I’ll just turn to chemists by education. Fortunately, they are around).

But this is if the author of the article is right. So you should conduct an experiment, which I was not slow to do. As other alcohols, I chose medical alcohol 95%. It’s easy to get it. It is relatively cheap. He is of high quality.

I will say right away - the result pleased me. This alcohol dilutes the paint just fine. I will not describe the preparation of an acceptable consistency. Leite - you yourself will understand. Everything is obvious. The paint does not clog the nozzle for a very long time. It’s fine to lie on the surface. It dries quickly.

So I came to the conclusion that the main way to dilute acrylic-latex paints from Akan I will be medical alcohol. I advise you to try.

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